Obama: Connecting Kyoto to the Sea and Beyond

In the days when overseas travel was done by sail, and overland travel was done on foot, there existed a network of roads linking the ancient capitals of Kyoto and Nara to the then-bustling seaport of Obama. These roads later became collectively known as the Sabakaido, or “Mackerel Highway,” as they were used primarily for transporting salted mackerel and other seafood harvested from the bountiful Wakasa Bay. Yet the Sabakaido was more than merely a highway connecting Kyoto to the sea. It connected towns to hamlets, commerce to culture, and — when the port of Obama served as a principal gateway to the Asian mainland — it connected this island nation to the outside world, serving as a conduit for ideas, beliefs, innovations, and aesthetics that would help shape Japan’s complex culture over the centuries.

Today, as more travelers begin to seek an easy detour from the overly-trodden Golden Route, Obama is again well positioned to reclaim some of its glory as a crossroads. With the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen to nearby Tsuruga, Obama can now serve as a waypoint to destinations such as Kyoto, Amanohashidate, Eiheiji, Kaga, and Kanazawa.

The Sabakaido continues to function as a natural corridor between Kyoto and the Sea of Japan. By car, the journey takes roughly two hours and lends itself to meaningful stops along the way, including Ohara—a favorite countryside retreat for Kyoto residents—before continuing north toward Kumagawa-juku, a former post town that still retains much of its Edo-period charm.

Thanks to its history and geography, Obama is unusually rich in cultural and religious sites. Temples established long before Kyoto became the capital remain quietly ensconced in forested valleys and, in town, former merchant and entertainment districts survive as lived-in neighborhoods. Here, daily life unfolds amid traditional streetscapes shaped by centuries of maritime trade.

Guests can ride e-bikes through rural valleys and satoyama while visiting one of the extraordinary temples, witness a morning auction from the Fisherman’s Wharf, or set out from a satoumi fishing village in a boat to watch the fishermen haul in their nets. As a living fishing and farming region, the experiences here are rooted in everyday life rather than performance.

Accommodation is of course key to any crossroads. In Obama and Wakasa, traditional machiya townhouses—once central to port-town and post-town life—have been carefully restored as private stays. Skilled local artisans have preserved architectural elements such as wooden beams, earthen walls, and inner gardens, while incorporating modern comfort with restraint. Operated by locally based owners such as Obama Machiya Stay, Yao Kumagawa, and Tsubakito Kotowa, these machiya stays are well suited to small groups and families seeking privacy, atmosphere, and a sense of place, across a range of comfort levels including refined, luxury options.

Recent media coverage has begun to reflect this renewed relevance, including a feature in Condé Nast Traveller highlighting Obama’s local warmth, and a Japan Times article (hot off the press!) by long-time Kyoto resident Ted Taylor exploring the town’s historical role at the origin of the Saba Kaido. Together, they point to a place that is once again best understood not as an endpoint, but as a meaningful connection along a deeper route through Japan.