Cycling the Sabakaido: From Kyoto to the Sea on Japan’s Ancient “Mackerel Highway”

Temples, cedar forests, and timeless villages—rediscover Japan from the saddle, tracing a path once used to carry fish to emperors.

Between Kyoto and the Sea of Japan lies a trail steeped in history. Once a vital artery connecting the coast to the ancient capital, the Sabakaido—or “Mackerel Highway"—carried more than just fish. Pilgrims, monks, traders, and even the first elephant to set foot on the island nation traversed these rugged mountains, carving out a cultural lifeline that shaped the heart of Japan.

Today, this road invites a different kind of traveler.

On two wheels and at a gentle pace, cyclists ride from Kyoto to the sea, trading cityscapes for cedar forests, and crowded streets for picturesque villages. This is not just a bike tour. It’s a journey into the past, with each pedal stroke drawing you deeper into landscapes where time slows and tradition endures. Bike rental options include road bikes, hybrids, or premium e-bikes.

The Route: Four Days of Riding, Hiking, and Discovery

Day 1: From a Bustling Market to Mountain Roads

The adventure begins at the historic Demachiyanagi Market, followed by a scenic, short train ride whisking you away from the city’s bustle to the mystical mountain hamlet of Kurama. After visiting the iconic hilltop temple, the ride begins in earnest with a challenging climb over Hanase Pass, rewarded by a breathtaking descent through thatched-roof villages and terraced rice fields. Evening glamping with a riverside sauna and a local Wagyu beef barbecue offer the perfect reward for a day of effort and immersion.

Day 2: Through Forests, Over Passes, and on to the Sea

Leaving the comforts of the glamping site, the road leads through another hamlet and up into the mountains. Near the top, the rider dismounts to hike along the original Sabakaido trail, winding through a primeval forest that remains untouched by time, and along a ridge with breathtaking views.

Once over the pass, the long descent leads into Obama, a serene seaport town that once bustled with trade and culture. Along the way, there will be a stop for lunch in a beautifully restored farmhouse and visits to a sacred temple and shrine over 1,300 years old. Tonight’s stay is in a lovingly restored Machiya townhouse, the former home of a wealthy sea captain.

Day 3: Of Fishermen, Farms, and Forgotten Roads

The day begins early with a lively local fish auction, and an immersion into the daily rhythms of a fishing town still alive with tradition. After a rustic breakfast in a 100-year-old bakery, the visitor takes a ride through the well-preserved historical Nishigumi neighborhood before heading inland.

The ride winds through rice paddies and sato-yama, Japan’s liminal zone between mountains and fields - and a centuries-old study in sustainable farming. In Miyagawa, guests will stop for lunch at Café Jin, opened by a floral artist-turned-chef who returned to revive his home village. The final ride goes past the sacred Uriwari Falls—famous for its pristine spring water—and into the Edo-period post town of Kumagawa Juku, ending at the final stay: a private townhouse with a shabu shabu dinner prepared home-style by a local grandmother.

Day 4: Circling the Lakes of Poetry

A short drive in the morning leads to Mikatagoko, the Five Lakes of Mikata, whose serene beauty is celebrated in the ancient poetry of the Manyoshu. There, guests will cycle a quiet route along two of the lakes, framed by mountains and shimmering with light, that is also a popular haunt for birdwatching. Optional stops include sake tasting at an old brewery and lunch at a local restaurant before reaching Tsuruga Station, where the journey concludes.

From here, guests can continue to Kanazawa by bullet train—or return to Kyoto via express train with new stories, stronger legs, and a renewed sense of wonder.

For more information on this tour, reach out to us at contact@japan-san.net.